Minggu, 30 Agustus 2015

New Insecticide Labels to Increase Focus on Pollinator Protection

As part of an ongoing effort to raise consciousness about the potential threat to pollinators posed by neonicotinoid insecticides, the USEPA recently unveiled new pesticide labeling criteria.The new labels will contain a bee advisory box and icon with information on routes of exposure and spray drift precautions. 

The recent announcement focuses on products containing the neonicotinoids imidacloprid, dinotefuran, clothianidin and thiamethoxam. The EPA will be working with pesticide manufacturers to change labels so they are in compliance the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) safety standards.

In May, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and EPA released a comprehensive scientific report on honey bee health, showing scientific consensus that there are a complex set of stressors associated with honey bee declines, including loss of habitat, parasites and disease, genetics, poor nutrition and pesticide exposure

Although there is no data presently connecting the use of these insecticides in turf to declining bee health, it may prudent for pesticide applicators to become reacquainted with product labels to ensure they are being used in a safe and responsible way. Current labels already include a hazard statement concerning the risk to pollinators posed by these insecticides.

The EPA also recently released new enforcement guidance to federal, state and tribal enforcement officials to enhance investigations of beekill incidents. When it comes to pesticides use, those of us in the turf industry really do need to be doing everything we can to avoid unnecessary risks.


Doug Richmond
Turfgrass Entomologist

Weed of the Month for August 2013 is Common Bermudagrass

Common Bermudagrass  

Biology: Common bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) is the most commonly used turfgrass in the southern United States, but it is also a difficult-to-control weed in northern turf. Bermudagrass is a drought tolerant, warm-season, perennial grass species that tolerates low mowing and actively spreads vegetatively by both rhizomes and stolons but also has the ability to spread by seed.


Identification: Bermudagrass has a blue-green leaf and forms large patches in lawns as it spreads radially from rhizomes and stolons once it becomes established. The stolons can be easily spotted spreading over sidewalks and drives.


Stolons of bermudagrass are visible creeping over a street curb.
Bermudagrass rhizomes are thick and can be found in the soil.


The patches are easily noticed in the summer months when cool-season turf is stressed by heat or drought. Patches are also noticeable in the early morning as bermudagrass holds a heavy dew on its leaves in the early am. In the winter months, bermudagrass is apparent as brown, dormant areas of turf.

Green bermudagrass is apparent in this drought stressed cool-season turf.

Green bermudagrass is apparent in this drought stressed cool-season turf.

Heavy dew on a small bermudagrass patch.

Green cool-season turf surrounding a dormant bermudagrass patch.


Leaves can be very hairy or sparsely hairy depending on the biotype but the ligule will always have hairs.  





The finger-shaped spikelets on the bermudagrass seedhead are similar to a crabgrass. Bermudagrass will produce seedheads from mid-summer until fall. Spikelets typically have 3-6 spikes in number.



Cultural control: Enhance cool-season turf density through overseeding and fall fertilization.

Biological control: None known.

Chemical control: Bermudagrass is the most difficult to control turf weed. Keep this in mind when trying to control it! These “control” methods should be regarded as ways to “suppress” bermudagrass. It is extremely difficult to “eradicate” bermudagrass. Different situations require different approaches. The areas below describe bermudagrass control in different situations for different users:
  • Control before seeding or sodding an area during renovation
  • Control for homeowners 
  • Control for professionals

Control before seeding or sodding an area during renovation
The most effective way to control bermudagrass is with a preplant soil fumigant. For most, fumigation is not an option because it is so costly and because of specialized application equipment needed. A good alternative is to make three applications of glyphosate over the growing season (May, July, and September). Wait three to four weeks for regrowth before making the follow-up applications. Research shows that a tank-mix of 3 qts/A glyphosate plus fluazifop will improve bermudagrass control over glyphosate alone. When using fluazifop, be aware that it will have some residual soil activity. Wait at least 30 days before seeding turfgrass after applying fluazifop to bare ground or 14 days after an application to turf.
  • Professional products that contain fluazifop only that can be used during renovation include Fusilade II and Ornamec. 
  • Homeowner products that contain fluazifop only that can be used during renovation include ORTHO GRASS B GON GARDEN GRASS KILLER 
Control for homeowners 
There are few “over-the-counter” products available for bermudagrass control. One such product is Bayer Advanced Bermudagrass Control for Lawns. Multiple (3 or more) applications will be needed to suppress bermudagrass. I suggest that homeowners make applications at the start of the end of the summer when the bermudagrass is not actively growing. Summer applications are generally less effective on bermudagrass and could injure their lawn when applied to drought stressed turf or heat stressed turf as temperatures approach 90 degrees. I suggest using this product twice in the month of May, twice in September, and once in early October. Treating during the cooler periods of the year while the weed is green will help to control the weed while reducing the risk of injuring your desirable lawn grasses. Having said all of this, remember that this is the toughest turf weed to control and few options are effective. At best, the homeowner will be able to suppress/reduce this weed but likely ever completely eradicate it.

Control for professionals 
There are many situations on golf courses or lawns where bermudagrass invades. There are also many cool and warm-season grasses that bermudagrass invades. Each situation in each different turf spcies requires a different approach. Consult Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals Publication (AY-336) for more information on professional options for control in these situations.

For more information on weed control, search this blog and archived turf tip postings and check out our Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals Publication.

Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist


Words You Might Hear a Turf Nerd Use

A nerd is an intelligent but single-minded person obsessed with a nonsocial hobby or pursuit1. Therefore, a turf nerd is someone single-minded towards turf, obsessed with turf, and a bit nonsocial. I suppose that described me pretty well.


To help increase your turf nerd quotient (only nerds use words like quotient), I thought I would educate you about 12 words that you might hear a turf nerd use. Try your best to weave one of them into a conversation this week.



12 Words You Might Hear a Turf Nerd Use:

agrostology – the branch of systematic botany that deals with grasses2. Some of the first turf scientists in the country were first called agrostologists in the early 1900s.

anaeraobic – the absence of molecular oxygen2. This term is usually used when discussing soils. A soil that is anaerobic is lacking on oxygen. A wet or water-logged soil is anaerobic. Without oxygen in the soil plants suffer and shifts in bacterial populations occur.

apomixis – the laymen’s definition is “clonal reproduction through seeds” which is also known as agamospermy.  This one gets complicated, but all you need to know is that Kentucky bluegrass is apomictic which means that when you buy a particular cultivar of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), all the seed you plant will essentially grow-up to be genetically identical to the parent plant. With many other cool-season turfgrass species, the individual seeds are produced through sexual reproduction (intercrossing) of plants with similar traits which results in individual plants within a cultivar that are almost identical or very similar but technically genetically different than one another. Vegetative apomixis can also occur such as with bulbous bluegrass (Poa bulbosa).

cation – a positively charged ion2. Examples include calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sodium (Na), and hydrogen (H). These will commonly be referred to as cations on a soil test report. Cation exchange capacity is a measure of the soils ability to retain these positively charged cations on the soil colloid which is negatively charged.



desiccation – the process of being desiccated (which is to dry up) due to the deprivation (another nerdy word) of water2. Desiccation or drying out is a common term used to describe a specific type of winterkill than can occur in turf when no snow fall is present and when wind speeds are high and windy days are frequent. Desiccation injury to turf is more common in the plains in states such as Nebraska.

dioecious – having staminate and pistillate flowers on separate plants2. A plant that has separate male and female flowers that usually occur on separate plants. Buffalograss is an example of a turf that is dioecious.

Male flower

Female flower or burr.


glabrous – having a smooth surface, without hairs2. When you want to describe that a grass plant is smooth and without hairs, use the term glabrous. The Kentucky bluegrass had a glabrous leaf blade. The opposite is pubescent which means covered with short hairs3.

hygroscopic – readily capable of absorbing and retaining water from the atmosphere, under normal conditions of temperature, pressure, and humidity2. You all have experienced this phenomenon whether you know it or not. Most fertilizers are hygroscopic. When you open the fertilizer bag and then come back a few weeks later and all the fertilizer is stuck (caked) together, it is due to the fertilizers hygroscopic nature.

marcelling – A wavy or washboard pattern on the surface cutting plane of mowed turfgrass; usually results where the clip of the reel exceeds the mowing height4. Marcelling is specific to reel mowers and not an effect seen with rotary mowers.

Look for the parallel lines running NNW. This is Marcelling.


mat – Thatch intermixed with mineral matter that develops between the zone of green turf vegetation and the original soil surface; commonly associated with golf course putting greens that have been topdressed2.

rachilla – subdivisions or branchlets of the rachis that support individual flowers, (seeds), within the spiklet of grasses2. The axis of a grass spiklet3. This is the little golf tee looking appendage on a turf seed.



verdure – the quantity of green living plant tissue per unit land area remaining above the soil following mowing at a specified height and usually expressed on a dry weight basis2. Essentially, this is how much turf is left above the soil surface after mowing. We often measure the mass or the quality (carbohydrates, mineral content, etc.) of verdure in turf research.

I hope you enjoyed this post.

Aaron Patton, Turf and Weed Scientist, Purdue University

Footnotes:
  1. http://dictionary.reference.com
  2. From or adapted from Beard, J.B., and H.J. Beard. 2005. Beard’s Turfgrass Encyclopedia for Golf Courses, Grounds, Lawns, Sports Fields. Michigan State University Press, East Lansing.
  3. Harris, J.G., and M.W.. Harris. 2001. Plant identification terminology: an illustrated glossary. Spring Lake Publishing, Payson, UT.
  4. Turgeon, A.J. 2008. Turfgrass Management. Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.

Sabtu, 29 Agustus 2015

Watering Bans Making Turf Establishment Tough in Some Locations

Now is the time to be seeding a lawn, but in some communities water restrictions and bans are preventing homeowners and lawn care professionals from renovating/reseeding damaged lawns following this summer’s drought. August 15 to September 15 is considered to be the optimum time to seed cool-season lawns in Indiana. This optimum window is slightly longer in southern Indiana until about September 30. The reasons why this window is optimum for establishment is because 1) soil and air temperatures are warm which promotes faster seed germination, 2) few weeds germinate at the end of the summer  and 3) this seeding date allows for maximum plant development and root growth prior to the next summer’s hot, dry conditions. All of these factors should improve long term turf survival. Aside from improving the appearance of the lawn, seeding lawns now will help turf reestablish thin and bare areas to reduce potential soil erosion, especially in newly established/constructed areas.

While turf can be established in the spring from seed, spring seeded lawns often perform poorly in the summer because 1) weeds like crabgrass also germinate in the spring and compete with turf seedlings, and 2) turf planted in the spring is shallow rooted at the start of summer and requires additional summer watering to keep spring seeded areas from succumbing to summer heat and drought. Thus, fall is the best time to seed a lawn and establish a lawn to reduce future watering needs and reduce erosion.

While water restrictions in Noblesville were lifted recently a water ban still exists in the city of Bloomington and the City of Indianapolis including Marion County and its surrounding communities.

The City of Bloomington and the City of Indianapolis water bans prohibit installing sod in damaged areas and new construction. While the optimum planting window for sod is slightly longer than the seeding window, early fall is still the best time to install sod. This helps promote long-term survival and fall rooting which in turn will reduce watering needs the following summer.

The City of Bloomington and the City of Indianapolis water ban does allow for watering new sod and newly seeded grasses, but only if these areas were installed prior to the watering bans going into effect. We would encourage the City of Bloomington and the City of Indianapolis to consider allowing exemptions this fall for planting seed or sod in turf areas damaged by this summer’s drought. This will help long-term turf survival, reduce soil erosion, and reduce 2013 watering needs.

The Bloomington water ban does excempt some businesses included golf courses (only greens, tees, and fairways) and nurseries. Both bans also allow watering of athletic fields to help keep these areas safe for athletes by reducing soil surface hardness and maintaining actively growing turf. The City of Indianapolis watering restrictions do restrict athletic field watering to Monday, Wednesday, and Fridays sometime between the hours of 9 pm and 6 am for athletic fields with sports in season.

Drs. Aaron Patton and Cale Bigelow, Purdue Turfgrass Scientists



Sources:


2013 Imprelis Update: Tree Maintenance, Replacement, and Disposal

This article provides a 2013 update of this issue and what we hope will be the last and final update on Imprelis. This update addresses some of the frequently asked questions about Imprelis® in 2013.

2013 Imprelis® Update: Tree Maintenance, Replacement, and Disposal (PDF) (08/13)

For a complete review of the facts and a more detailed description of the problem, see “A Turf Professionals Guide to Suspected Imprelis® Herbicide Injury in the Landscape” and “Imprelis Update: 2012 Field Notes on Injury and Recovery” available at our Imprelis Clearinghouse Website.



Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist, Purdue University



Jumat, 28 Agustus 2015

Weed of the month for August 2014 is Prostrate Spurge

Prostrate Spurge  

Biology: Prostrate Spurge (Euphorbia humistrata) is a summer annual broadleaf weed that can be found in dry/sandy and/or nutrient-poor soils along with compacted, weakened or disturbed turfgrass and landscape sites. Look for it first in driveways and sidewalks or in potted plants in a landscape or nursery as temperatures start to get warmer. Prostrate spurge can also be found in cultivated fields, brick walls, and parking lot cracks. It germinates from seed in June and July in Indiana and spreads via low-growing prostrate stems than form a dense mat as they invade the turf canopy. Its ability to establish and grow in multiple soil/climate conditions and highly compacted soils, as well as its ability to withstand low mowing heights, make prostrate spurge a common turfgrass weed throughout the state of Indiana.

Identification: Prostrate spurge is a low-growing summer annual weed in Indiana. The plant is anchored by a central shallow taproot and, as suggested by its common name, it forms a ground-hugging mat with prostrate stems that grow outward throughout the turf canopy. The plant produces these spreading stems along with viable seed very quickly, often within a couple of weeks after germination.






The leaves of prostrate spurge are pale green, hairy, egg-shaped, widest at the apex, and located opposite of each other on the stems which are pinkish in color and distinctly hairy. Prostrate spurge continually flowers from July to September and produces large quantities of viable seed throughout its life cycle. These flowers are small but numerous, originate from the base of leaves located on the upper-stem, and are composed of several male and female flowers within a cluster. It produces a fruit that consists of a 3-lobed, 3-seeded capsule with stiff hairs on its surface.






Prostrate spurge is very difficult to distinguish from other spurge species, particularly spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculata). In fact, some taxonomists consider the two plants to be the same species. An identifying characteristic of both species is a small reddish-brown splotch at the mid-vein/base of the leaves which acts almost as a camouflage; thus, making the weed difficult to distinguish from the desired turf. The primary difference between these two species is that spotted spurge leaves are often darker in color and the nodes do not produce roots when they come into contact with the soil.


Additionally all spurges exude a milky/white sap when damaged that can be toxic to animals if ingested.

Cultural control: None known specifically for prostrate spurge. Proper turf management such as adequate mowing heights, irrigation, and fertilization will help to produce a dense, aggressive turf which is the greatest defense against invading weeds. Prostrate spurge also thrives in compacted soils; thus, soil cultivation (hollow-tine aeration) may aide in management of the weed. Due to its shallow taproot, prostrate spurge can often be hand pulled when populations are small enough; however, it is important to remove weeds as soon as possible due to its ability to produce copious amounts of viable seed very quickly after germination.

Biological control: None known specifically for prostrate spurge.

Chemical control: Control options for prostrate spurge can include both pre- and postemergence herbicides. Preemergence control can be achieved with spring applications of isoxaben (Gallery, Isoxaben) prior to germination in summer. Dinitroaniline herbicides (such as Barricade, Pendulum) can also be applied for prostrate spurge control though the results are often less consistent than applications of isoxaben.

Once spurge germinates, control in cool-season turf can be achieved with applications of two- or three-way mixtures of 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP, or MCPA which are available in multiple product formulations at local retailers. Repeat applications may be necessary due to the germination of new seedlings.


For more information on weed control, search this blog and check out our Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals Publication.

For archives of past weed of the month postings, visit our Weed of the Month Archive.

Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist
Leslie Beck, Postdoctoral Research Associate

Kamis, 27 Agustus 2015

New Publication: Calibrating Ride-on Sprayers and Spreaders

The use of ride-on sprayer/spreaders by lawn care operators (LCOs) and the sports turf industry has increased dramatically since they were introduced in the 1980s. Ride-on equipment offers a number of competitive advantages over walk-behind spreaders and the hand-gun/hose-reel type of application. This publication addresses specific procedures for separately calibrating the pesticide sprayer and the fertilizer spreader of ride-on equipment. The goal is to ensure proper application accuracy to optimize performance.

Calibrating Ride-on Pesticide Sprayers and Fertilizer Spreaders: Keys to Application Accuracy (PPP-104)



Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist, Purdue University
Fred Whitford, Coordinator, Purdue Pesticide Programs


Minggu, 23 Agustus 2015

Dr. Cale Bigelow Sabbatical

Just a quick note from across the pond. I will be on study-leave/sabbatical for fall semester from 15 Aug. - 31 December, 2011. I will be collaborating with colleagues interested in urban ecology and studying alternative low input turfgrass systems in Europe (primarily the United Kingdom). Please note that during this time I will have limited access to my Purdue email but will do my best to check it at least weekly. Do not be offended if my responses are slow, I have not forgotten about you, things are just slower over here...! If you call my office phone I will be checking that number very infrequently you are better off to send me an email cbigelow@purdue.edu or simply call Jennifer Biehl directly 765-494-8039. In my absence, the Turf Team (Drs. Gibb, Jiang, Latin, Patton, Richmond and of course Ms. Jennifer Biehl) are more than able to help answer any questions you might have regarding turfgrass in Indiana. You can find loads more information on our turf home page. www.agry.purdue.edu/turf

Selasa, 18 Agustus 2015

Plant Turf Seed or Control Weeds First?

A common question this time of year is whether to plant turf seed now and control weeds later OR to instead control the weeds now and then seed later. Here are my thoughts.

Cool-season turf seed mixture.

Option 1 for areas with mainly broadleaf weeds and a few annual grasses: Plant now and control weeds later.
The optimum time to control perennial broadleaves and germinating winter annual broadleaves is in October. As such, seeding in late August and early September should allow enough time for seeds to germinate, grow, and be mown twice (assuming you irrigate and fertilize these newly seeded areas) prior to an October herbicide application. You can delay the herbicide application until late October and early November if you get a late start on seeding or if your seedlings are slow to establish (like Kentucky bluegrass). Most broadleaf herbicide labels suggests delaying application until newly seeded areas have been mown twice. Some herbicide labels allow a shorter interval between seeding and an application. These shorter interval herbicides include Quicksilver, SquareOne, and Drive (shorter interval tall fescue compared to perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass).

Typical language about postemergence herbicide application delays after seeding turf.

Drive XLR8 label instructions regarding application timing and seed and seedling emergence.

Option 2 for areas where you have lots of weed competition: Spray weeds now and seed tomorrow.
When there is a lot of crabgrass or broadleaf weed cover, then you would likely benefit from spraying the weeds now and seeding afterwards. Tenacity, Pylex, and SquareOne, and Drive are among the herbicides that can be applied today and allow seeding as soon as tomorrow (after the herbicide has had a chance to translocate in the target weed). Once the turf germinates, then follow the guidelines in option 1 above to provide follow-up weed control if needed.

SquareOne application instructions allowing seeding one day following the herbicide application.


Option 3 for areas perennial grassy weed competition: Spray weeds now and seed later.
When there are a lot of perennial grassy weeds such as quackgrass, fountain grass, etc., then your best bet to remove these perennial grasses before you seed as there are few herbicide options afterwards.
Best results with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate are seen on perennial grassy weeds when multiple applications are made. Ideally, you would have started this process several weeks ago. Why? It is not uncommon for the weed to regrow from stolons or rhizomes (if a spreading grass) a few weeks after the first glyphosate application. One must allow the weed to regrow (wait at least three weeks) before the next application. At least two applications are recommended, but three or more may be needed. One must realize that the area will be dead and unsightly for a number of weeks or months if optimum control is desired.

Starting this process now, means that you won’t be able to seed until after the optimum seeding window of August 15 to September 15. If you are still committed to renovating this year, another seeding option is to seed in December through March as a dormant seeding after you have finished killing your perennial grassy weeds. Learn more about dormant seeding by clicking here.

If there are only a small number of patches, spot applications can be made with glyphosate. Reseeding can take place a day or two following final herbicide application. Once the area has been infested with a large number of patches, killing the entire area will be most effective with multiple applications of glyphosate. Renovation can begin five to seven days following final glyphosate application. Refer to AY-13, “Lawn Improvement Programs” for information on reestablishment.

One caveat to the above, Option 3 recommendation, is that we have a few selective herbicides for perennial grassy weed control that might be options for use during turf renovation.

Table 1. Non-selective and selective herbicide options for controlling perennial grassy weeds in cool-season turf.

Weed in cool-season turf
Non-selective herbicide option Selective herbicide option
Bermudagrass glyphosate Pylex (topramezone), Acclaim Extra (fenoxaprop)
Creeping bentgrass glyphosate Tenacity (mesotrione)
Dallisgrass glyphosate No effective selective control
Field paspalum glyphosate No effective selective control
Fountain grass glyphosate Drive (quinclorac) and other quinclorac containing herbicides
Nimblewill glyphosate Tenacity (mesotrione), Pylex (topramezone)
Orchardgrass glyphosate No effective selective control
Quackgrass glyphosate No effective selective control
Rough bluegrass glyphosate Velocity (bispyribac-sodium) for golf courses and sod farms.
Tall fescue glyphosate No effective selective control, formerly Corsair (chlorsulfuron)
Windmillgrass glyphosate Tenacity (mesotrione)
Zoysiagrass glyphosate Pylex (topramezone)(based on preliminary results following labeled instructions for bermudagrass control)

With any of these options, it is especially important to read the herbicide label and understand the application restrictions both before and after seeding and other application instructions (such as adjuvant and timing recommendations) so that you can maximize weed control and maximize turfgrass establishment.

For more information on weed control, search this blog and check out our Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals Publication.

Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist

Fescue. You mean there’s more than one kind?

Typical conversation about fescues.

Bill: What kind of grass do you have?
Bob: Fescue.
Bill: What kind of fescue?
Bob: You mean there’s more than one kind?
Bill: Yes.

As I travel around the region and give presentations or respond to email and phone questions, it is very common for me to enter into a dialogue with a person about planting, maintaining, controlling, etc. some kind of fescue. Usually in my interactions with people, they are unaware that there are many different kinds of fescues.

Festuca is the genus (first word in scientific name) for fescue species. Hence, Festuca’s are name Fescue. However, recently tall and meadow fescue were reclassified by scientists into the genus Schedonorus (see table below) although they still retain their same common name of fescue. Tall fescue and meadow fescue are similar with meadow fescue being used sparingly for overseeding in warm-season turf or as a forage grass and tall fescue commonly being used in lawns, roadsides and pastures. The remaining fescues including slender creeping red fescue, strong creeping red fescue, Chewings fescue, sheep fescue, blue fescue, and hard fescue are often grouped together and called “fine fescues” because of their narrow (fine) leaves. Another reason for grouping them all together is because they are difficult to distinguish from one another. Blue fescue is another fine fescue species used as an ornamental landscape grass.

Below is a breakdown of the common (and a few not so common) fescues used in turf (and ornamentals) and a short description of each.

Table 1. Description of the common and uncommon fescues used in turf (and ornamentals).

Common name
Species Comments
Slender creeping red fescue Festuca rubra ssp. littoralis Similar to strong creeping red fescue but with shorter, more slender rhizomes. Both slender and strong creeping red fescue tolerate some close mowing.
Strong creeping red fescue Festuca rubra ssp. rubra Strong creeping red fescue has more rhizome growth (spreading ability) than slender creeping red fescue. Strong creeping red fescue is a common ingredient in “Sun & Shade” mixes because of its good shade tolerance and its suitability in seed mixtures.
Chewings fescue Festuca rubra spp. fallax Named after George Chewings. Excellent shade tolerance and turf density, this fine fescue is similar to creeping red fescue but it lacks rhizomes.
Tall fescue Schedonorus arundinaceus (Schreb.) Dumort. (also = Lolium arundinaceum (Schreb.) S.J. Darbyshire; formerly = Festuca arundinacea Schreb.) Improvements in tall fescue have transformed this grass from a forage type grass to many improved turf-type cultivars. Today, both "forage" and "turf-type" tall fescue are used. Kentucky-31 (KY-31) is a forage type and not a lawn type. Known for its ability to maintain green color during moderate droughts due to its deep root system, tall fescue is more commonly used today on lawns than in the past.
Sheep fescue Festuca ovina Excellent drought tolerance. This fine fescue with fair turf density does not tolerate close mowing. It is often used in unmown, “native” areas of golf courses.
Blue fescue Festuca glauca Ornamental grass. Common variety is ‘Elijah blue’
Meadow fescue Schedonorus pratensis (Huds.) P. Beauv. (formerly Festuca pratensis Huds.) Similar in appearance to tall fescue. Little current use in high value turf.
Hard fescue Festuca brevipilla Excellent shade tolerance, this fine fescue does not tolerate close mowing. It is often used in unmown, “native” areas of golf courses.
Red fescue Festuca rubra Today, red fescue is classified into two groups: 1) Slender creeping red fescue or 2) Strong creeping red fescue. However, some seed labels may still just say, red fescue.

Figure 1. Unmown, fine-fescue used on a golf course. These areas are often described as no-mow, native areas, or environmentally sensitive areas to the golfers.

Figure 2. Chewings fescue. Notice the fine leaf texture (narrow leaf width) compared to tall fescue below.
Figure 3. Tall fescue (turf-type).




Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist

Senin, 17 Agustus 2015

New Lawn Recovery Guide

The Purdue Turf Program has put out a new publication to help homeowners and professional answer some of the questions asked about drought stress.

Lawns and the Summer 2012 Drought/Heat Crisis: Now What? | PDF


Selasa, 11 Agustus 2015

Imprelis® Update: Stop Sale, Use, or Removal Order. Q&A

The following post provides an update on Imprelis® herbicide in a Question and Answer format.

Q: What action has the Office of Indiana State Chemist (OISC) recently taken concerning Imprelis®?



A: The OISC issued a stop sale, use, or removal order (SSURO) on August 1, 2011 for the herbicide Imprelis®. The OISC has reason to believe that DuPont Imprelis® Herbicide, EPA Reg. #352-793, when used as directed or in accordance with commonly recognized practice, has caused injury to non-target vegetation, except weeds to which it has been applied, and is therefore MISBRANDED. Therefore, the OISC is hereby issuing a STOP SALE, USE OR REMOVAL ORDER (SSURO) to DuPont Professional Products. This SSURO requires DuPont Professional Products to cease all sale, distribution and use of DuPont Imprelis® Herbicide, EPA Reg. #352-793, in the State of Indiana, effective immediately. This SSURO pertains to any and all quantities and sizes of DuPont Imprelis® Herbicide, EPA Reg. #352-793, within the ownership, control or custody of DuPont Professional Products wherever located. In addition, DuPont Professional Products shall not commence any movement of this product from any present location without prior written approval from the OISC. Any person violating the terms or provisions of this SSURO shall be subject to civil or criminal penalties as set forth in IC 15-16-4.



Q: What is the stance of the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) concerning Imprelis®?



A: On August 11, The EPA issued a SSURO for the herbicide Imprelis®. Previously, the EPA issued a letter to DuPont on August 3, 2011 stating two concerns. First, that the EPA is considering issuing an SSURO (described above). Second, the EPA is concerned about the lack of information that is being provided by DuPont to the public concerning the efficacy of Imprelis®. The EPA “strongly encourages DuPont to reconsider” providing information related to the phytotoxicity studies related to effects on trees. More information about Imprelis, including EPA registration of the herbicide, is available at: http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/regulating/imprelis.html



Q: What action has DuPont taken to comply with the OISC?



A: DuPont is implementing a voluntary suspension of sale of Imprelis® herbicide. More information is available at http://www.imprelis-facts.com/ and at (866) 796-4783.



Q: Can I still apply Imprelis® herbicide in Indiana if I have some leftover?



A: No. The SSURO issued by OISC does not allow the continued use of existing Imprelis® herbicide.







Q: What do I do if I have leftover Imprelis® herbicide?



A: DuPont has stated that they will initiate a product return and refund program in mid-August 2011. More details about this will be shared when they become available.



Q: Where can I get more information from DuPont about Imprelis®?



A: Website (http://www.imprelis-facts.com/) and hotline ((866) 796-4783) are available.



Q: Where can I get more information from Purdue and the OISC about Imprelis®?



A: Read news alerts from the Office of Indiana State Chemist at http://www.isco.purdue.edu/, read more from the Purdue University Turf Program at http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/, and received updates from the Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory at http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/.



Read past documents created on July 22, 2011



A Homeowner’s Guide to Suspected Imprelis® Herbicide Injury in the Landscape



A Turf Professional’s Guide to Suspected Imprelis® Herbicide Injury in the Landscape



Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist





Turf: Dead or Alive?

Many areas in Indiana have received recent rains to their lawns. Some lawns have greened-up and others are still brown leaving many wondering whether their lawns are dead or alive. Below are some images that illustrate the process of determining whether or not your lawn is dead or alive.

Step 1. In an area of suspected dead turf (brown areas), pull at the brown (dead) leaf blades.

Step 2. After pulling up some of the dead leaf blades, examine the ground closely and look for signs of new growth. All new turf growth comes from the crown of the plant (turf) and these crowns are located at or near the soil surface.

Step 3. If you find new turf emerging in these dead areas then that is good news that your turf will recover from drought and heat injury. If not, wait a few more weeks and reexamine these areas.



Step 4. If no new growth is occurring in areas you might need to reseed these spots. For lawns with bunch-type grasses such as tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, reseed dead spots larger than 3 inches in diameter. For Kentucky bluegrass lawns, reseed dead spots larger than 6 inches in diameter (about the size of your hand, or at least mine). Since Kentucky bluegrass has rhizomes (underground stems) it has a greater recuperative capacity than bunch-type grasses. The photo below shows a bare area between clumps of perennial ryegrass.



Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist





Certainty Turf Herbicide Label Changes

Monsanto recently updated the Certainty® Turf Herbicide label 2015-1 on packaged goods. These changes are effective on product packaged and shipped after May 2011. All cool season turfgrass uses for Certainty have been removed from the 2015-1 label. The product can still be used on warm-season turf. The label change also adds nursery and landscape recommendations for preplant, directed and over-the-top applications in ornamentals and groundcovers.

Q: What does this mean?



A: Product packaged before these changes can continue to be used according to label directions in cool season turf, but any Certainty® purchased in the future will be labeled only for use in warm-season turf like bermudagrass and zoysiagrass.



Q: Certainty® worked well on yellow nutsedge in Kentucky bluegrass, what should I use now?



A: Many herbicide options are available for sedge control in cool-season turf including bentazon (Basagran), LescoGran), halosulfuron (SedgeHammer, ProSedge, others), mesotrione (Tenacity), sulfentrazone (Dismiss), and sulfentrazone containing herbicides (Echelon, Q4 Plus, Solitare, Surge,TZONE).



Q: Certainty® was labeled for rough bluegrass control in Kentucky bluegrass and creeping bentgrass, what should I use now?



A: Velocity is the only other turf herbicide labeled for rough bluegrass control, but it is only labeled for sod and golf course use. Rough bluegrass control in residential and commercial lawns will now need to be controlled with non-selective applications of glyphosate.



Q: Certainty® was labeled for suppression and partial control of quackgrass. Are there alternatives for selective quackgrass control in cool-season turf?



A: No. Certainty® was the only herbicide labeled for selective control of quackgrass in cool-season turf (primarily Kentucky bluegrass). Quackgrass will now need to be controlled with non-selective applications of glyphosate.



Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist







Rabu, 05 Agustus 2015

Start Seeding Cool-Season Turf Now


The best time to seed a cool-season lawn is in the late summer to early fall. Adequate soil moisture, warm soil, and limited weed pressure allow for excellent seedling growth. Normally, we recommend seeding between August 15 and September 15 as the optimum seeding window. However, due to our cool summer and a relatively cool forecast for August, we are recommending that you can start seeding anytime now and there is no need to wait until mid-August.



It is critical to seed as early as possible within this window. Even when seeding within this window, waiting one week later to seed may mean the turf will take 2 more weeks to mature as germination and subsequent growth slows later in the fall as temperatures cool. Additionally, annual bluegrass and other winter annual weeds will be more problematic with fall seeding dates than late summer seeding dates.

Seeding early (later summer) allows the turf to maximize its establishment and rooting prior to the next summer's heat and drought.

For more information about establishment, see:

Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist

Watering Newly Seeded Areas



Water is necessary to initiate the germination process in seeds. As the seed imbibes water, enzymatic reactions within the seed trigger the germination process. Enzymes breakdown the energy stored inside the seed endosperm and this energy is used by the seed embryo for growth. The first visible step in the germination process is the emergence of the radicle (this is the first root)(Figure 1). Next, the coleoptile (an opaque protective sheath) emerges. The coleoptile functions to protect the emerging leaf. Lastly, the green color of the first leaf can be seen as it emerges through the coleoptile. Once the first green leaf emerges, the plant can begin to make its own energy through photosynthesis and it no longer relies on the energy that was stored in the endosperm.

Figure 1. Pictured left to right in the order of the germination process are a newly planted seed, a seed with the radicle emerging, the coleoptile emerging, the leaf emerging through the coleoptile, and the leaf and root elongating.


Once the first irrigation or rainfall occurs after seeding, it is important to keep watering! Seedlings are very susceptible to moisture stress during the first few weeks after seeding (Figure 2). The upper 1 inch of soil should be kept moist with frequent irrigation for the first two or three weeks after planting. Germination will occur in 5 to 14 days depending on the temperature and the species planted (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Tall fescue seedlings emerging in a hydroseeded area. As new seedlings germinate they need to be watered frequently enough to avoid drying.

Figure 3. Pictured left to right in the order of germination are perennial ryegrass (PR), tall fescue (TF), creeping red fescue (CRF), and Kentucky bluegrass (KBG). This photo was taken six days after planting. NOTE: Kentucky bluegrass has not yet germinated in this photo.
 
After the seed germinates and seedlings develop roots into the soil, the lawn can be watered less often. Once established, the lawn should be watered deeply and infrequently only when the plant shows signs of water stress.

Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist