When a GPS Unit Malfunctions

This photo was submitted from a golf course where it was found tunneling into a green.  It is obvious that it is creating some damage but the astute manager was able to find and photograph the beetle in association with the damage.  This combination always makes identification and control recommendations much easier.

The insect was identified as a ‘Fancy Dung Beetle’ in the family Geotrupidae: Bolbocerosoma sp.   It is closely related to the Scarabaidae (Japanese beetles, masked chafers, June beetles etc) that we are very familiar with.  Like the Scarabs, these insects often bore down into the soil to lay their eggs.  Usually Geotrupid beetles select areas very rich in decaying organic matter such as in manure and barn yards.  However, just like people, every so often one will become completely lost.  This one apparently has ended up on a golf green by accident.  

You can see that the beetle has created a bit of a burrow and this may be a concern if many of his kind were to do the same thing on a green.  However, I think this may be just a random occurrence and the damage, a very isolated incident. Why it is where it is nobody knows for sure.  I suspect that it’s GPS system is simply out of whack.


Timothy Gibb, Department of Entomology, Purdue University

Cicada killers are Wimps

Spread the word – Cicada killers are wimps! Unfortunately, because of their size and the fact that they often live in lawns and landscapes close to where people live, cicada killers evoke a great deal of anxiety.  These wasps are huge and look very much like oversized yellow jackets but they have some very important differences. First, cicada killers are not social wasps that build colonies and protect their queens.  Because they have no colony or queen to protect, they are not aggressive and have no reason to sting people.

Cicada killers are one of the largest wasps that burrow into the ground in this area.  At first glance, they are a very large, ominous looking wasp resembling a hornet or yellow jacket and evoke a good deal of fear. However, most of the wasps encountered are males, patrolling the nesting area. They may fly about, dive bomb, or even hover in front of, but they cannot sting people. They do not possess a stinger.
Females do not defend their burrows, and will sting only if handled. Female cicada killers dig burrows in well drained, light textured soil, typically in an area with full sunlight. The 1½ inch diameter opening leads into an oblique tunnel that runs for 12-18 inches and reaches a depth of 6-10 inches. The female completes and stocks up to four cells, each containing from one to three paralyzed cicadas on which eggs are laid. When eggs hatch the larvae bore into and feed on the cicada. Secondary tunnels are often built off the primary tunnel; thus each female may rear up to 16 larvae in a burrow.

Cicada killer wasps are beneficial and do not pose danger in most cases.  When possible they should be left alone. 

The larvae pass the winter in their burrows and emerge the next July as adults. Between late July and mid August, these new adults emerge, mate and the female digs new soil burrows, stocks them with cicadas, and the cycle is repeated. Adults usually die by mid September.
On occasion a large nesting aggregation can result in many holes and unsightly mounds of soil in a small area of a yard or garden. Control of cicada killers is safely and most effectively done by placing a small amount of 5% carbaryl (Sevin) dust down into the soil tunnel. For a large nesting aggregation, the area can be sprayed. In both cases, the tunnel entrances should be left open.
In most cases, Cicada killer wasps are beneficial and do not pose danger.  When possible they should be left alone.  Education is the single best strategy to help people deal with cicada killers.  Teach people that they may look dangerous but in reality – they are wimps.

Timothy Gibb, Department of Entomology, Purdue University

Warning: High Numbers of Black Cutworms in Traps

June 28/11. We are reporting very high numbers of black cutworm moths in traps right now. These numbers are, in fact, higher than we have seen in many years.

What this means to you is that there is a possibility that these moths will lay eggs on your turf and the resulting caterpillars may damage your golf course.
We generally do not see black cutworms damage fairways although we know they are feeding there. On bentgrasses, however, damage can become quite severe if populations are high and feeding goes undetected.
We are not suggesting preventative treatments because of the spotty infestations of these insects, but we are suggesting that you be aware of the increased threat right now and monitor bentgrass tees and greens for the presence of the caterpillars.
Larvae are hairless caterpillars with unique markings on the head and body. The upper half of the body is a darker gray than the lower half.

They have black dots along both sides of their body.

Newly hatched cutworms are small but they may grow to a length of 2 inches.
A soap solution (1/2 ounce of liquid dish soap per 3 gallons of water) applied as a drench to the green during the day will flush the caterpillars from below the thatch to the surface where they can be easily seen. If three or more cutworms per square yard are found, a pesticide application may be needed.
If a decision to treat a green or tee is made, remember to also treat a 20-foot border to kill any cutworms that otherwise may crawl onto the green. Research from Wisconsin shows that daily mowing may remove more than 75% of the cutworm eggs before they hatch. However, eggs easily survive the mowing and may hatch where the grass clippings are deposited. It is therefore recommended that clippings be deposited at least 100 yards from susceptible tees or greens to prevent the cutworms from crawling back.

One female black cutworm moth can lay up to 2,000 eggs over a series of several days. The eggs hatch in three to 10 days (depending on temperature) and the young caterpillars begin to feed on the grass shoots. As the caterpillars increase in size, they burrow into the turf and move to and from these holes at night to feed on the grass.
Regular sampling for cutworms and damage, followed by insecticide treatment, if needed, will protect turf grass against significant damage by black cutworms. Chemical control should only be considered when the cutworms are confirmed in high numbers and damage begins to become apparent.
Insecticides recommended for cutworm control include any of the pyrethroids labeled for use in turf.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Ground Moving with Tiny Migrating Insects

Whenever I give my ‘General Insect Pest’ presentations I include a couple of photos of chinch bugs and their nymphs.  Usually I say something like “These are not pests every year in Indiana but can become troublesome in years when we have a drought.”

Guess what?  That is now! The dry conditions we are experiencing in much of the state are perfect for chinch bugs and false chinch bugs to thrive and we are beginning to receive reports of chinch bugs by the gazillions.  Some reports are that the ground appears to be moving due to the migration of these insects.

These bugs belong to a family of true bugs known as the seed bugs (Lygaeidae).  Adults chinch bugs are small (about 1/8 inch in length), narrow, and are gray-brown (if they are false chinch bugs), or black and silver (if they are true chinch bugs). They deposit eggs in cracks in the soil or on various plants in late winter or early spring. Small reddish-brown nymphs (immatures) feed, go through a series of molts, and reach the adult stage in approximately three weeks. Several generations may be produced per year, especially when dry conditions abound.  

False chinch bug nymphs with gray brown mottling and dark developing wing pads. Adult (bottom right) with silvery grey wings (Photo credit Surendra Dara)

True chinch bug nymphs in thatch with reddish body separated by distinct white band (Photo credit John Obermeyer)

Chinch bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts and feed by removing fluids from their host plants. Some sources report the possibility of the injection of a toxin during the feeding process. Damage symptoms are usually restricted to a general wilting of the plant and heavy feeding may cause leaves to turn brown and die.

During droughty years large populations develop primarily on weeds especially in the mustard family and on clump grasses in rangelands, waste areas, and other uncultivated land. As the vegetation in these areas begins to dry up, the bugs migrate in large numbers to other more succulent food sources.

Agronomic crops, such as corn, soybeans and alfalfa, may be damaged by the feeding of chinch bugs.  Ornamental plants, including turfgrass can also become damaged. Damage is most likely to occur in fields, lawns or golf courses that are adjacent to the uncultivated areas the bugs are migrating from. Populations are extremely high along the migration "front" and damage may occur until the bugs disperse over a wider area.

Sometimes chinch bugs get into homes that are in their path of migration. Rest assured that they are a nuisance only and that they will not damage the structure of the building and are harmless to people and pets.  Excluding them by sealing up cracks, broken windows etc. will be helpful.

Chinch bugs should only be controlled if they are causing damage.  Effective chemical control generally requires that the bugs be contacted with the insecticide. Residual control is not likely during migration periods as bugs may not stay in treated areas for a sufficient period of time to accumulate lethal doses of the pesticide and any insects that are killed are merely replaced by other migrants.

Timothy J.  Gibb

Purdue University Insect Diagnostician

Japanese Beetle Emergence and Management

Below is an e-mail conversation that may be of benefit to other turfgrass managers asking similar questions.

Original message:

From: Golf Courses

Date: Friday, June 22, 9:30 AM

To: Gibb, Timothy "Gibb, Timothy" <gibb@purdue.edu>

Subject: Japanese Beetles Management in 2012

With the early spring we expected to see early Japanese Beetles.  We did not really see any at all this spring or even now.  Do you know why?

Last year our grub treatment was very successful and we had little damage from grubs in the fall. With very dry conditions so far this spring and summer and moderately watered fairways, what do you anticipate grub pressures will be like this fall?

High soil temps and dry conditions during the last two months make me think that we may not have much pressure from grubs. Given that is a significant expense to cover even the watered areas for 36 holes, might this be a year to skip treatment?. 

Any thoughts on these ?

Reply:

The Japanese beetles did come out very early this year.  We saw emergence

3 weeks in advance of most years.

A couple of comments to your questions:

(1) The huge numbers and wild fluctuations of Japanese beetle populations that we have experienced in Indiana over the last 20 or so years is starting to moderate. 

This cycle is common with infestations of any new pest.  In early years the populations seemingly run out of control, but over time parasites, diseases and predators naturally catch up and slowly bring the pest numbers down. You will note that Japanese beetles in the Eastern states are not the huge problem that they were when they were first introduced 100 years ago.   Their populations have been moderated significantly over the last two decades or so.  After their first introduction it took them many years to slowly make it westward to Indiana.  Once introduced to our state, they quickly became a serious problem every year.

The last 2 or 3 years have been moderated, however and my opinion is that we are now beginning the moderation phase of the pest cycle in Indiana.

Having said that, we still see spotty population outbreaks of Japanese Beetles

in IN. For every call like yours asking where the beetles have gone, we get another asking where have all the beetles have come from.  The reality is that they are still a very hit/miss pest.

(2) I would am very hesitant about predicting future grub damage based on observations, or non-observations of adult beetles.  We know that from past MRTF sponsored studies, beetle trap catches do not correlate very closely with the presence of grubs or with turf damage later in the summer. I know that this seems non-logical but the reason in part is due to the ability of the beetles to fly long distances in a short period of time. 

Our research in Indianapolis indicates that a mile is no real challenge for a motivated beetle to fly.  This, coupled with the dry season that we are in right now and the fact that you are irrigating your turf, means that beetles down wind of you may be on the verge of moving into your area to lay their eggs.  Irrigated turfgrass is a magnet for beetles in a dry year such as this one.

We have always suggested that if you are going to skip a grub application

with confidence, you have to sample. Sampling is work - but it can also save you pesticide application costs.  It may very well be that you will not

have grubs this year, but I would not count on it just because of a light

beetle flight.  Sampling fairways in August is what I would base my

decision on if I were you.

Hope this helps

Tim Gibb

Mound Making on Greens and Tees

In addition to earthworms, there are several insects that can create small mounds of soil above the surface of turfgrass. Usually such mounding is of minimal consequence and, in fact, is beneficial to turfgrass environments as it accomplishes the same thing as cultivation, aeration and top-dressing - only on a very small scale.

On occasion, however, the mounds can become a nuisance, especially on closely mown greens where they may interfere with putting and ball roll.

In such cases it is important to know the identity of the insect in question. Because mounds alone are difficult to identify, associated insects should be used for validation.

Look for insects directly associated with the damage in question. Sometimes these insects are difficult to find because they are nocturnal or because they live in tiny burrows beneath the mounds.

One suggestion is to use a small probe or trowel to dig beneath the mound to a dept of several inches. Quickly deposit the core into a glass jar and look closely for any insect that might be present. Be persistent. Groups of typical mounds seldom fail to produce at least one token specimen, by which an identification can be made.

Ants and ground nesting solitary bees can sometimes cause mounds to appear. Both of these insects are easily managed with the use of carbaryl, among other pesticides.

Some tiny beetles such as scarabs (Geotrupes) and ground beetles (carabids) also can tunnel and deposit soil in small mounds on the surface of the turfgrass.

The above photo was submitted, compaining of nuisance ‘mounding’ on a putting green. This was reportedly occurring on a daily basis on 6 greens during June. A subsequent sample of the soil below revealed two ground beetles that we commonly know as seed corn beetles.
Despite their name, corn seed are not the primary food source for seed corn beetles. Rather, they feed on other things that they find in the soil including other insects. We also know that they are highly attracted to and fly to lights at night. There are two generations per year, typically occurring in May/June and again in August.

Their appearance is more likely in cool, wet conditions, typical of this spring.

Management recommendations for these beetles usually include applying a surface insecticide as soon as mounds appear. Insecticides recommended for seed corn beetles control include any of the contact pesticides labeled for use in turf.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Doug Richmond, Turfgrass Entomologist

The Case of the Dead Zoysia in Southern Indiana

Zoysia grass is a warm-season grass that is being more frequently used in warm, humid and transitional regions. As zoysia is becoming more frequent in our state we are learning more about the pests that attack it. The photograph below was taken of a stand of zoysia in the southern part of Indiana. It was clearly killed by something – but what? Damage was evident in the late fall and got even worse this spring. We went through the usual bank of questions; diseases, winter kill, billbugs, but came up with no certain cause of decline.
At last, a sample was run through a Berlese funnel that uses heat and light as a method to extract live insects. In addition to the myriad of mites that are found in nearly every soil sample, we extracted many small red insects with white stripes across their backs (photo below).

These were identified as newly hatched chinch bugs. Looking back at the weather conditions last fall, it became apparent that this zoysia lawn occurred right in the middle of the drought affected region of the state. Interestingly, chinch bugs are also known to occur most in times of drought.

Putting two and two together allowed us to make a tentative diagnosis of a difficult problem. Certainly, the drought must have played a part in the decline of the turfgrass, but finding the chinch bugs also allowed us to say with certainty that they also contributed, AND are continuing to contribute to this damage.

Chinch bugs have piercing-sucking mouth parts and suck juices from the crowns and stems of grasses. Adults are black and have shiny white wings that are held flat across the back. The newly hatched nymphs (1st and 2nd instars) are bright red in color and have a characteristic white strip across their back. As they grow they slowly change to a brown, and eventually black, color and the white stripe vanishes.

Natural controls often hold these pests in check, however, when conditions (including weather) are just right, populations can build up and damage may be manifest.

Chemical control should only be considered when the chinch bugs are confirmed in high numbers and damage begins to become apparent. Otherwise, insecticides often take out the very predatory insects that keep chinch bugs in check.

Insecticides recommended for chinch bug control include any of the pyrethroids labeled for use in turf.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Doug Richmond, Turfgrass Entomologist

Purdue Annual Turfgrass Research Report

As the green industry continues to have a large impact on Indiana and the nation, Purdue University has assembled an outstanding team of researchers, extension personnel, and educators that are dedicated to solving problems and helping meet the needs of Indiana residents. One segment of the Indiana green industry that continues to provide a significant impact on the state’s economy is the turfgrass industry, which includes residential and commercial lawn care, sports turf, cemeteries, sod production, golf course maintenance, and more. Indiana’s professional turfgrass industry is estimated by some to generate in excess of $1.4 billion in annual expenditures and provide over 11,500 jobs.

The Annual Report of the Purdue University Turf Program is published each year by the Purdue Turf Team and features significant findings made by turfgrass scientists over the past year. It is our desire that this publication will keep our stakeholders up-to-date on significant changes and advancements that affect our industry.

This 2011 Annual Report includes 21 papers from faculty, staff, and graduate students. We hope that these findings will enhance your ability to conduct business in an efficient and productive manner.

We would also like to recognize the many organizations, companies, and individuals who have contributed their time, talent and resources to help make our program successful. We are forever indebted to the many people who contribute to this program. Special recognition goes to the Midwest Regional Turf Foundation which supports the research and extension programs of each member of the Turf Team and also provides substantial support towards the operating and capital expenses of the W.H. Daniel Turfgrass Research and Diagnostic Center.

We hope that this publication will be of value to all persons with an interest in the Indiana green industry. To read more about our recent research, click on the links below or read more from the turf homepage at: http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/research-annual-report.html

2011 Turf Research Report - Full Report PDF
Introduction to the 2011 Turf Research Summary PDF
 

Cultivar and Species Evaluations
Evaluation of Putting Green Bentgrass Cultivars and Blends PDF
 

Turf Management
Diverse Responses of Perennial Ryegrass Accessions to Submergence Stress PDF
 

Weed Management
Controlling Poa annua on putting green height turf in Indiana, Michigan, and Nebraska: 2011 Research Update PDF
Controlling Yellow Nutsedge With Sedgehammer+ PDF
Do Granular Herbicide Applications Effectively Control Broadleaf Weeds in Turf? PDF
Efficacy of Current Organic Postemergent Weed Control Options in Turfgrass Systems PDF Evaluation of Crabgrass Control with Various Dimension Formulations and Corn Gluten Meal PDF
Herbicide Safety and Weed Control Comparison in Spring Seeded Kentucky Bluegrass PDF
Herbicide Safety and Weed Control Comparison in Spring Seeded Tall Fescue PDF
Herbicide Selection and Timing Influences Ground Ivy Control PDF
Mowing and Herbicide Effects on Ground Ivy Control in Turf PDF
Preemergence Crabgrass Control with Various Herbicides PDF
Postemergence Broadleaf Herbicide Safety on Putting Greens PDF
Postemergence Ground Ivy Control with Herbicide Combinations PDF
Sequential Applications of Preemergence Crabgrass Herbicides for Enhanced Control – Three Year Summary PDF
 

Insect Management
Evaluating Acelepryn for adult preventive control of billbugs in Kentucky bluegrass turf PDF
Evaluating combinations of Pyriproxyfen and imidacloprid for control of Japanese beetle larvae in Kentucky Bluegrass turf PDF
Influence of application timing on efficacy of granular formulations of grubicides against Japanese beetle larvae in Kentucky bluegrass turf PDF
 

Disease Management
Effects of early season fungicide application on dollar spot outbreaks, 2011 PDF
Integrating fungicide and genetic host resistance for control of dollar spot on creeping bentgrass PDF
Residual efficacy of fungicides for brown patch management on creeping bentgrass, 2011 PDF

Early Billbug Damage Reported Across the Midwest

This season continues to challenge our traditional thinking about insect seasonal ecology and management. Indiana and neighboring states are currently witnessing serious billbug infestations with late instar billbug larvae already present in the soil.  This activity is easily 2-3 weeks ahead of normal. We advise all turf managers to take a close look at areas they suspect are displaying symptoms related to drought dormancy. Billbugs cause similar symptoms, but under these conditions they are capable of causing significant damage and loss of turf. Use the tug test to differentiate billbug damage from drought dormancy.  Simply grasp a small group of suspect tillers (brown and dead looking) and pull straight up. If billbug damage is present, the tillers will break-off easily at or just below the soil surface and the bottom ends of some tillers may be packed with very fine sawdust like material (see Figure 1). This is diagnostic for billbug damage. Repeat this process at several locations across the damaged area.

At this time, management options for billbugs are limited to trichlorfon (Dylox), carbaryl (Sevin), or one of the faster-acting neonicotinyls; chlothianidin (Arena) or thiamethoxam (Meridian). Application of these materials should be followed by irrigation (1/4”) or rainfall to wash the applied material into the activity zone of billbug larvae. Over the long term, it may be advisable to renovate susceptible areas to endophyte-enhanced turfgrasses such as perennial ryegrass or tall fescue where agronomically feasible.   





Doug Richmond and Tim Gibb 
Turfgrass Research and Extension Entomologists

Japanese beetle monitoring traps confirm early season in 2012

As anticipated, Japanese beetles are out early this year.  The first beetles were captured in central Indiana during the week of May 14-18. (This is nearly a month earlier than most years.)  We expect Japanese beetles to arrive in full force in this area within the next 2-3 weeks. 

Because we have never experienced such an early spring, it is difficult to predict just how the beetle populations will respond.  We know that the beetles are active early but we do not know if this means that they will be with us longer into the summer or not.  Also, keep in mind that dry conditions do not favor beetle emergence but a significant rainfall event could potentially shift emergence into overdrive.

It is safe to say that we need to prepare now, however.

Protect susceptible plants, especially those that have been recently transplanted or those that are stressed for one reason or another. Favorites host plants for Japanese beetles include linden, crab apple, plum, and other fruit trees, rose bushes, grapes, and several garden variety vegetables. 

Grub preventative applications probably cannot be applied too early this year. The newer long lasting grub control products will be a great advantage this year because we do not know exactly how long the grubs will be feeding on the turfgrass.

If dry weather continues, oviposition and grub feeding may be concentrated in irrigated turfgrass.

With all insecticides, either for adults or for grubs, it is critical to follow the label directions exactly when making applications.  

Sod webworms

Sod webworms may cause damage to closely mowed turfgrass early in the spring. Damage, similar to that depicted in the photos below, may be seen on golf tees and greens.

The overwintered caterpillars become active when the temperatures warm up in the spring and begin to tunnel and feed. They are mostly active at night, so they often elude inspection. The absence of an obvious insect makes the diagnosis difficult, - but look for patches of close-cropped turf as well as the tiny trails or tunnels in the thatch. Often the soil (and sand topdressing material) in these trails is bound together with silken material to create a cover or cap, hence the name “webworm”. Along with the damage, these tunnels help provide evidence of sod webworm activity. A soap flush is a sure method of verifying sod webworm presence.

To flush suspect areas, mix one full tablespoon of lemon scented Joy dishwashing liquid in two gallons of water and dispense the solution through a sprinkling can over 1 square meter of turf. It is best to mix the detergent into the proper amount of water by hand in order to minimize the formation of foam which can make it much more difficult to find emerging insects. Allow 10-15 minutes for the sod webworms to appear on the surface as it may take a while for the soapy water to penetrate the silk-lined tunnels these insects create.

Healthy and vigorously growing turfgrass will often ‘outgrow’ damage from sod webworms. However, if the damage is unsightly and controls are warranted, use a pesticide that is labeled for sod webworms and apply at the recommended rates. Mach 2 and Conserve are both labeled for sod webworms as well as a host of conventional insecticides. Do not irrigate after application so that the insecticide stays on the blades and in the thatch where the webworms reside and feed.
The following photo, taken two days after treatment shows the resulting dead larva.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Doug Richmond, Turfgrass Entomologist

Guess Who Came to Dinner?

The photos below were submitted to our laboratory for identification.  While there are no animals present in the photos, the damage depicts the problem very nicely.

Even without seeing any, I am quite certain that the turf is infested with white grubs. 

As you know, white grubs do some damage to grasses, but what damage they cause is sometimes more than compounded by other animals coming in to forage for the grubs. 

Such is the case with this incident.  It is clear that either raccoons, skunks or opossums have been digging for grubs in this area.  The turfgrass ripped up and strewn all around (Photo #1) is evidence of foraging by these animals.

The second photo of ‘peck holes’ is similar evidence of grub foraging but in this case it is caused by birds.  Apparently, they also are enjoying the grub buffet.

Together, these photos show the result of what may have been somewhat tolerable grub injury to a lawn, made intolerable by animal foraging on the grubs.

Since the grass is pretty much dead at this point, the only solution is to rake it up and replant or lay sod.  Laying sod gives a quick fix to the problem, but not all animal foraging damage is this severe.  Keep in mind that any grass that is not torn up will survive and thus give a head-start to an over-seeding strategy.

Consider applying grub control treatments during late July or August to prevent grubs from re-occurring next year.

Grub foraging damage by mammals

Bird peck-holes 

Tim Gibb

 Insect Diagnostician

 

Small Moving Specks on the Windowsill?

No you are not imagining this. The specks are actually moving. That is because they are actually tiny mites called clover mites. Clover mites can become annoying household pests, especially in and around homes where new lawns have recently been established or where there’s a heavy growth of well-fertilized grass close to foundation walls. They enter a home from outside and often become most active near sunny areas – why you see them on windowsills.
These tiny mites feed on grasses, clovers and certain other plants in the lawn and around the home. They often crawl into cracks and crevices to molt and lay eggs. Typical “hiding places” are under the loose bark of trees, on foundations walls, beneath siding and around window frames.
Clover mites are most abundant in the fall and spring and are relatively inactive during the hot summer months and again during cold weather. They migrate into homes either when population pressure becomes too great or when feeding conditions become unfavorable, such as the onset of hot or cold weather.

Clover mites are very tiny as can be seen on this ruler.	Under magnification, however, they are reddish in color and have characteristically long front legs.

The mites are very tiny creatures (smaller than a pin head) and may occur in countless numbers. They usually appear first around windows, but later may overrun entire walls of a home. To most people they appear as tiny, moving, black specks. Under magnification, however, they are reddish in color and have characteristically long front legs. This character helps separate them from the hundreds of other different mites.

Clover mites can be prevented from entering a home or building by using perimeter treatments. These may be either physical or chemical. A physical barrier can be established by separating turfgrass (where the mites feed) from the perimeter wall of the building. A strip of clean cultivated soil or stone, free of grasses, that extends 18 – 24 inches out from the foundation is usually sufficient to deter these mites from crossing. Ornamental plants that are not clovers or grasses may be added to increase the attractiveness.

Chemical barrier treatments may be applied to the outside foundation perimeter (three feet high and three feet out). Soaps as well as pyrethroid insecticides have been shown to be effective IF applied during the times that the mites are on the move.

Use of chemicals inside the home is not recommended. Remember that these mites do not directly damage the building nor do they bite people. Most consider them a temporary nuisance pest only and find that vacuuming or wiping them up with a soft sponge or wet cloth is sufficient. Be aware that they can smear and leave a red stain if crushed.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Skunks and Raccoons causing Havoc?

We continue to receive reports of spring-time turfgrass damage caused by raccoons or skunks. These animals are not feeding on the grass but rather are foraging for below ground, high populations of white grubs. As the vertebrates forage, they turn over great clumps of turfgrass resulting in an area that resembles a war zone.

Sometimes high populations of grubs can be reduced by using insecticides during the spring-time. Such insecticides should not be applied to control grub damage but may be warranted if severe secondary damage occurs as a result of skunk or raccoon activity. Suitable insecticides include compounds with good contact/oral activity such as trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin). Remember, however, that if the vertebrates are hungry enough, they will forage for dead grubs as well as live. It may take several days or even a week for the dead grubs to decompose enough to reduce their attraction to vertebrates. During this period of time, the turfgrass may continue to suffer nightly decimation. Direct control of the vertebrates is usually the preferred management tactic.

Raccoon and Skunk Management:

Raccoons are protected furbearers in most states, with seasons established for running, hunting, or trapping them. Most states, however, have provisions to control furbearers that are damaging property. Striped skunks are not usually protected, but the spotted skunk is fully protected in some states. Because legal status and licensing requirements vary, it is best to check with state wildlife officials before implementing any control procedures.

A number of techniques have been used in attempts to frighten away raccoons and skunks from various areas, but none are effective for more than a day or so. These techniques include the use of lights, radios, dogs, scarecrows, plastic or cloth streamers, aluminum pie pans, tin can lids, plastic windmills, etc.
A variety of materials have been used in attempts to repel these pests, again with a lack of proven effectiveness. These materials include blood meal, dog feces, mothballs and dirty laundry. There are no poisons or toxic gases available for raccoon and skunk control.

Live Trapping:
For most turf professionals and homeowners, live trapping and removal of the offending animal is the most practical approach to preventing the damage.

Raccoons
Raccoons are relatively easy to catch in traps, but it takes a sturdy trap to hold one. Traps should be at least 10 x 12 x 32 inches (25.4 x 30.48 x 81.28 cm) and constructed with heavy materials. Commercial models readily available for raccoons include the Havahart ™ Professional Raccoon Trap No. 1079; Nos. 3, and 3A; or Tomahawk™ Nos. 108, 108.5.

Some raccoons readily enter live traps upon first encounter while others remain wary of the traps for several days. Therefore, pre-bait the traps by placing baits in and around the traps and twist-tie the trap door open for 2 -3 days. This will allow the raccoon to feed freely and become accustomed to the " strange metal object that provides free food" and increase the success of capturing wary individuals. Disguising the exterior of the trap with wood or branches, bushes, or other natural items may entice the raccoon to interact with the trap.
Effective baits include sweet corn, sardines and other fish, cat food, melons, fried bacon, and cooked fatty meat. Tiny amounts of baits should be placed in a trail leading into the trap, with the major portion of the bait placed at the back end or closed end of the trap. When baiting for raccoons where pets are active outdoors, use jelly and honey as these baits are generally not attractive to cats and dogs, but work well for raccoons. Raccoons are also attracted to shiny objects. Adding a wadded up piece of aluminum foil in the trap may help to stimulate their curiosity and attraction.
Raccoons have agile, elongated "fingers" which allow them to pry open lids of garbage cans as well as steal baits through the sides of some traps. To prevent this, place logs, stones, or similar objects around the sides of the trap to create a barrier between the bait and the raccoon (the Havahart Pro™ Raccoon model is specifically designed to prevent bait theft). Sometimes, raccoons will tip over cage traps and shake out the bait, so traps should be staked down to the ground or attached to some nearby object with wire.
Place traps in areas of greatest activity. When raccoons are visiting sod lawns from wooded areas, they tend to follow well establish trails that offer protection, such as fence lines, building perimeters, and trails beneath available shrubbery. Try to identify such areas and locate the traps along these trails.

Skunks
Skunks can be live-trapped using the same methods and trap sizes as described above for raccoons.
Fish (canned or fresh), fish-flavored cat food, chicken parts, bacon, or peanut butter on bread are effective baits. The trap should be set in the areas receiving damage. When placing traps in open areas such as on fairways, leave both doors open to allow the trap to accommodate an animal approaching from either direction.
If skunks are kept in a darkened trap they will remain relatively calm, and be less likely to spray (release their scent). Therefore, cover traps prior to placement with an old blanket or piece of thick burlap. Handle trapped skunks carefully and avoid sudden, jarring movement or loud noises that may frighten the skunk. Striped skunks seldom spray when these precautions are taken, but the spotted skunk is less predictable.

Vertebrate pest management professionals should be contacted as to the proper procedures of handling trapped skunks. Some state wildlife agencies advise against relocating skunks as they may present a problem for others, or they may pose a health hazard -skunks are one of the major carriers of rabies. In many locales, trapped skunks can be brought to the local animal shelter for proper handling or possible disposal procedures.

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist

Black Cutworm and Armyworm Moths Are Early Arrivals in 2012

The mild winter experienced throughout the midwest has affected the arrival of our early season moths. Recent reports of both armyworm and black cutworm adults throughout the state signal an early arrival of the caterpillars. The first order of business for these moths is to mate and lay eggs.
Golf course superintendents and athletic field managers are advised to pay close attention to moth activity, current temperatures, and future weather conditions as they begin to search for caterpillars and associated feeding damage. The decision to treat should be based on this scouting activity, caterpillar damage and the potential threat of cutworms and armyworms to sensitive turfgrass areas.

Melting Snow Reveals Tiny Trails

With the winter snows finally melting away many are often surprised to find a series of tiny trails on the surface of their lawns and turfgrass fields. These are vole highways.

Voles are often called meadow or field mice. While they are similar to a house mouse in general size and shape, they have some important differences. Voles have small eyes and ears, stocky bodies and short tails when compared to other mice, but even more important is that they very seldom invade homes. Rather, they prefer to live in grassy fields or landscape beds.

Voles are herbivores. They eat seeds as well as leaves and stems of grasses and sometimes other green vegetation and occasionally, roots and bulbs. Often voles are attracted to, and take up residence under bird feeders where the seed is scattered and litters the ground. Removing or limiting this food source will, in turn, limit the voles in that area. Some have found that moving the bird feeders to areas that are less susceptible to vole damage is the preferred approach.

Voles do not hibernate during the winter months. They are active even during the winter and when snow is on the ground. They seem perfectly happy and actually do very well under the protection of the snow cover chewing away on the turfgrass plants. When the snow retreats what is left is a series of surface runways through turf areas. These measure about 2 inches wide and sometimes many feet in length. Fortunately, although these runs are an eye-sore now, they do not significantly damage the turfgrass. With the spring growth, these paths will fill in and the voles will soon be forgotten.

Even more damaging than the trails that they make in turfgrass, however, is the potential injury they may wreak on other plants. Voles can seriously injure trees, shrubs (and sometimes plastic irrigation lines) when they gnaw on them. And gnawing is what rodents do best! Rodents, including voles, seem to gnaw on everything, either for food or for fun. If given enough time to gnaw on the base of a tree, voles may completely girdle it, which will kill even a large tree.

When controls are required it is important to remember that voles are a major food source of many vertebrates including birds of prey. Their main protection from these predators is snow or dense vegetative cover. While we have little control over snow, an effective way to manage voles is to reduce their vegetative cover. Mow tall grasses in the fall so that they do not fall over and create vole habitat during the winter. Trim trees and shrubs including low lying plantings plants such as arborvitae, yews, junipers such that they are up off the ground. When possible, use rock mulch rather than bark mulch in the flower gardens and beds because this is much less favorable to voles. Mouse snap traps, baited with peanut butter and placed in the vole run, also can be used to control small, pesky, populations. When major infestations have to be controlled immediately, rodenticides may also be effective. Extreme caution must be exercised when employing them. These are mostly formulated as baits to be placed into burrow openings. Remember that other animals (including dogs and cats) dig for and prey on voles and will become exposed to baits if not used sparingly and properly. Always consult state regulations and use all pesticides strictly in accordance with label restrictions. Happy trails !!!

Tim Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist
Judy Loven, Vertebrate Control Specialist

2012 = Same Pests But Earlier ETA

With the very mild winter that most of Indiana experienced so far, we are being asked about its effect on insect populations for this year. The consensus among turfgrass entomologists is that although insect populations were probably not especially hurt by low temperatures this winter, they probably have not benefitted that much either. Insect pests have developed behavioral and physiological strategies to get through even very cold winters, so the lack of cold this winter probably will not affect the kinds of pests we have this year. However, because the emergence of insects is tied directly with temperature accumulations, we do expect to see insects emerge much earlier during years with mild winter compared to more normal years. In fact, we are already seeing the late winter emergence of many arthropods such as lady beetles, clover mites, and crane flies that usually begin later in March. Take for example clover mites. We are already receiving calls about these very tiny mites (smaller than a pin head) that may occur in high numbers, first around windows, but later over entire walls of buildings.

Clover mites most often originate in turfgrass stands that are relatively young (2 – 5 yrs old), well maintained and fertilized. During the late winter and again in the fall time, these mites seem to migrate in large numbers and often end up inside structures, including homes. Clover mites are small enough to squeeze through the tiniest of cracks and openings in buildings, making it nearly impossible to seal them out. Turfgass grown right up to and in direct contact with building foundations can also facilitate their entry into structures. Although they are harmless to humans and pets, the presence of large numbers of these mites inside structures can be unsettling and attempts to wipe or sweep them from light colored surfaces such as walls often smashes them, resulting in brown/red steaks that can be difficult to clean.

The temporary application of double-sided tape around window sills can help stop migrating mites from gaining further access into affected structures, but once inside, these mites often become dehydrated rather quickly making vacuum cleaning of their tiny dead bodies one of the best options.

Clover mites are very tiny as can be seen on this ruler. To most people they appear as tiny, moving, black specks. Under magnification, however, they are reddish in color and have characteristically long front legs. This character helps separate them from the hundreds of other different mites.

Clover mites can be prevented from entering a home or building by using perimeter treatments. These may be either physical or chemical. A physical barrier can be established by separating turfgrass (where the mites feed) from the perimeter wall of the building. A strip of clean cultivated soil or stone, free of grasses, that extends 18 – 24 inches out from the foundation is usually sufficient to deter these mites from crossing. Ornamental plants that are not clovers or grasses may be added to increase the attractiveness.

Chemical barrier treatments may be applied to the outside foundation perimeter (three feet high and three feet out). Soaps as well as pyrethroid insecticides have been shown to be effective IF applied during the times that the mites are on the move.

Use of chemicals inside the home is not recommended. Remember that these mites do not directly damage the building nor do they bite people. Most consider them a simply a temporary nuisance pest and find that vacuuming or wiping them up with a soft sponge or wet cloth is sufficient. Be aware that they can smear and leave a red stain if crushed.

Timothy J. Gibb, Extension Entomologist

Douglas Richmond, Turfgrass Entomologist